Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant part of northern London.
This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family completely surprised.
“I’m completely shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.
However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.
It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.
The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.
Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.
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